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Spicy tahini pasta.

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Peas and carrots have a reputation for being good companions on the plate, but I was raised on the frozen mix, so I never endorsed the notion. The wan cubes of orange and wrinkly orbs of green were about the same in size but not of the same texture, so a typical turn in a saucepan failed them both.

What a difference a little knife work makes. In this dish, the carrots are cut into thin, short matchsticks. Each vegetable is given its due, thanks to the right timing in the pan. (Read: The peas plump and the carrots retain some crunch.) They pick up notes from sauteed sweet onion, garlic and crushed red pepper flakes, then are combined with a quickly blended lemony tahini sauce.

Some pasta dishes just feel like fall, and this is one of them. It is earthy and savory, and can be served warm or at room temperature.

To make this a vegan meal, use a nondairy milk and a sharp vegan cheese.


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