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It may not be blue crab from Maryland, but nearly as fresh is Krabby’s seafood selection. Photo by Micah Redfield

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KRABBY’S SEAFOOD

3669 Star Ranch Road

313-9472

Hours: Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Monday, closed.

Prices/pound: Market, e.g., $11.99-$38.50.

What you need to know: No need anymore to bushwhack through Maryland to find a seafood boil.

It was perplexing. Any chance of an ocean view was obscured by the dense foliage that surrounds much of Maryland’s Chesapeake Bay. The prescribed route wound away from the town of Annapolis, away from the cobbled and historic streets, those lined with seafood restaurants all claiming the best crab bisque, or the best crab cakes. The destination was a crab shack with a cult-like following. A “locals only” dive, with privacy from tourists ensured by the maddeningly circuitous wanderings required to get there. Before the days of Google, forget finding this place without a local. A winding drive through the rural areas, twisting and turning to the point of discombobulation, until, emerging around a final left turn, a clearing presents itself. And suddenly the water appears. Along the sandy shore, clad in weathered timber planks, sits a small and unassuming building extending along piers onto the water. Small dinghies bob up and down along the adjacent docks.

This is the pinnacle of crab shacks. This is home of the unadulterated seafood boil at its finest. Add the optional shot of Sherry to the crab bisque. Prepare for a lifelong memory.

Living in Colorado, one doesn’t expect to approximate this type of seafood experience, ever. It’s not that food technology or supply chains or shipping routes preclude the possibility. Fresh fish is air mailed the world over. Perhaps it’s the general ethos of our landlocked state. Perhaps it’s the expectations of landlocked locals. Whatever it is, the supply of rustic seafood boils in Colorado is minimal, with little to be found outside “seafood” chain restaurants. And then five months ago the landscape shifted slightly.

You’ll have to forgive them the name. Anyone well versed in seafood ought to be acquainted with krab with a k. It’s not crab. It’s an oversight not reflected in the fresh Dungeness crab, snow crab and king crab available by the pound — in addition to the shellfish, shrimp and live Maine lobster. And just like the out-of-the-way Maryland dive, forgotten are the fineries often associated with seafood dining.

At Krabby’s, one finds tables and chairs and little else besides the large chalk board that announces current prices. Little else is needed. Because at the end of the day, what is poured out upon the paper lined table is perhaps the best seafood boil found in the Pikes Peak region. So, weather you’re getting lost in the meandering rural roads of Maryland, or simply popping down to Krabby’s strip mall location, expect a seafood boil at its finest.

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