There are always moments in summer when I am overwhelmed by ripe tomatoes, either that I zealously purchased or that my own vines produced. They are demanding, urgent, precarious; when time is short, I regard them meanly. Yet they are, like so much stale bread or figs splitting at their seams, a problem I love to have. They practically obligate me to make tomato gravy.
One of the South's many elegant lessons in ingredient economy, tomato gravy, like other Southern gravies, is an exercise in making much out of little. At its most basic, it amounts to tomatoes thickened by fat and flour, seasoned with salt and pepper. In its process, it transforms good tomatoes into something nearly luxurious, the roux rounding and plumping their flavor and giving rise to a rich, satiny sauce.
"Gravy is the great extender," says Sheri Castle, Southern food writer, cookbook author and reigning gravy authority. In a skillet, it typically picks up where something else left off - a few pieces of bacon or some crumbled sausage, a couple of pork chops or pieces of fish - maximizing resource and flavor (though it also can be made with reserved renderings or oil).
Tomato gravy adds another element of utility, capitalizing on an ingredient that might otherwise go to waste. Any variety is fine, so long as they are delicious. Their flesh should be juicy and rich-tasting, the flavor up to the same standards you would apply to a BLT. If that flavor is not quite as developed as one might like, Castle suggests adding a tablespoon or two of tomato paste.
Look for tomatoes that are a day past just-ripe: Think farmers market seconds, the tomatoes you left on your counter a day too long and the ones on the vine with a fat split down the center. They should peel easily and be slightly soft to the touch; these will give you more sweetness and juice, the better for gravy. They also peel and chop into a nice, chunky slurry more easily, although I prefer to grate them on the large-holed side of a box grater straight into a bowl, which means less mess on the cutting board and makes for a smoother gravy. While you can use still-firm ripe tomatoes, too, it's a bit of a waste. Save perfect specimens for a tomato sandwich or a simple tomato salad.
This recipe also calls for okra - the smaller the better as their skins will be more tender and their seeds less obtrusive. You will tip in the okra last, before it has a chance to release too many of its viscous juices. If it does, add more water to adjust the consistency. Of course, if you are serving someone who simply cannot abide okra, the gravy will be fine without it.
At serving time, ladle it into wide bowls, with a couple of biscuits or a heap of rice at the center, maybe a bowl of beans on the side. For me, on a warm night, this is plenty.
If you have any gravy left over, you can rewarm it on the stove over low heat, adding a little water to loosen it. Thin it out even more and add rice to make soup. Pour the dregs over some vegetables off the grill. Get every last drop.
Tomato Gravy With Okra
Yield: 4 servings (makes 3 cups)
2 pounds ripe tomatoes 2 tablespoons cooking oil (such as refined peanut, sesame or safflower oil) 3 tablespoons flour 1/2 medium or 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped 1/2 teaspoon sea salt, or more as needed 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more as needed 1/2 cup water (optional) 5 1/2 ounces okra, tops trimmed, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick slices
Slice off the very tops of the tomatoes at the stem end, and remove the cores. Grate the tomatoes (cut sides) on the large-holed side of a box grater seated in a mixing bowl. Discard the skins.
Heat oil in large, deep-sided saute pan over medium heat. Whisk in flour until smooth; whisk constantly for 5 to 7 minutes, to form a roux that begins to smell nutty and picks up a little color.
Add the onion and cook for 4 or 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they begin to lightly brown.
Add the tomatoes, the salt and pepper, stirring thoroughly to incorporate the tomatoes into the roux. Once the mixture begins to bubble at the edges, reduce the heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. The gravy should be thick enough to flow from a ladle, but not so thin that it spreads across an entire plate. If the gravy seems too thick, add the water, a few tablespoons at a time.
Stir in the okra; reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until it becomes just tender. Taste and season with more salt and/or pepper, as needed. Serve warm.
Notes: Make sure to choose very ripe, in-season tomatoes - they will yield more sweetness and juice. ... If you don't have a box grater, you can peel the skins with a paring knife (if they are very ripe, the skins should come off easily) and chop the tomatoes on a cutting board. ... Look for small- to medium-sized okra for their tender skins and small seeds.
Nutrition information per serving: 140 calories, 3 g protein, 16 g carbohydrates, 8 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 280 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 7 g sugar.