Colorado Springs News, Sports & Business

The Cooking Lab: Beer-can chicken

By W. WAYT GIBBS The Associated Press - Published: August 28, 2013 0

You might not find too many restaurant chefs plopping their poultry on cans of PBR, but all those tailgaters and beachside grillers are on to something.

There are solid scientific reasons that chicken really does roast better in a more upright, lifelike pose than when it is flat on its soggy back. And by adding a couple of prep steps to the technique and taking your care with the temperature, you can get the best of both worlds: succulent, juicy meat and crispy, golden brown skin.

Beer-can chicken recipes ecipes are everywhere online, but most of them don't address the two biggest challenges of roasting poultry. The first is to avoid overcooking the meat. Nothing is more disappointing at a Labor Day cookout than to bite into a beautiful-looking chicken breast only to end up with a mouthful of woody fiber.

The solution to this first challenge is simple: Take your time, measure the temperature correctly and frequently, and choose the right target for the core temperature (as measured at the deepest, densest part of the thigh). When you cook the bird slowly, the heat has more time to kill any nasty bacteria living in the food.

The federal government recommends bringing the meat to 165 degrees for at least 15 seconds. But guidelines issued by the USDA's Food Safety and Inspection Service show that 35 minutes at 140 degrees achieves the same degree of pasteurization, even in the fattiest chicken.

The recipe below calls for several hours in the oven and a core temperature of 145 degrees to 150 degrees. But be sure you use a reliable, oven-safe thermometer and place it properly as directed in the recipe. The tip shouldn't be touching or near any bone.

The second challenge that most beer-can chicken recipes fail to overcome is crisping the skin. Here, liquid is the enemy, and adding additional liquid in the form of a can full of beer is the wrong approach. So empty the can first and use the empty can merely as a way to prop up the bird and to block airflow in its interior so that the meat doesn't dry out.

Also, give the skin some breathing room by running your (carefully washed) fingers underneath it before roasting. Held apart from the juicy meat, the loose skin will dry as it browns, especially during a final short blast of high heat in a hot oven.

SLOW-ROASTED CHICKEN ON A BEER CAN

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Yield: 4 servings

1 medium roaster chicken 12-ounce can of cold beer

Procedure:

Set an oven rack in lowest position in oven. Remove the upper racks. Heat the oven to 175, or as low as oven will allow if its controls do not go this low.

Wash your hands well. Remove the neck and bag of giblets, if included, from inside the chicken. Slide your fingertips underneath the skin at the neck opening and gently work the skin away from the meat. Use care to avoid tearing the skin; continue as far as you can reach on both the front and the back. Turn the chicken over, and repeat from the cavity opening at the base of the bird, making sure to loosen the skin on the drumsticks so that it is attached only at the wings and the ends of the legs.

Use a knife to pierce the skin at the foot end of each leg and at the tail end of the front and back. These small incisions will allow the cooking juices to drain away so that they don't soak into the skin.

Pour the contents of the beer can into a glass, and enjoy it at your leisure. Push the empty can into the tail end of the bird far enough that the chicken can stand upright as it rests on the can.

If the neck was included with the chicken, use it like a stopper to close up the opening at the top of the bird. Otherwise you can use a bulldog clip to pinch the skin closed so that steam inflates the loose skin like a balloon and holds it away from the damp meat as the chicken roasts.

Set a baking sheet in the oven. Insert the probe of an oven-safe thermometer into the deepest part of the chicken's thigh. Stand the chicken upright (on the can) on the baking sheet and roast until the core temperature reaches 145 if you want the white meat to be juicy and tender; for more succulent dark meat, continue roasting to a core temperature of 150. A medium-size roaster will need 3 to 4 hours.

After the first 30 minutes of roasting, check the effective baking temperature by inserting a digital thermometer through the skin to a depth of 3/8 inch. The temperature there should be within 5 degrees of the target core temperature (either 145 or 150). If it is too high, open the oven door for several minutes; if too cool, increase the oven setting slightly. Repeat this check of the near-surface temperature every half hour or so.

When the core temperature hits the target, take the chicken out and let it rest, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, increase the oven temperature to its hottest baking setting. Don't use the broiler, but do select a convection baking mode if your oven has one.

Return the bird to the hot oven, turn on the light, and watch it carefully as it browns. The goal is crisp, golden brown skin. Once the chicken is browned, remove the can, carve the bird and serve immediately, while the skin is still crispy.

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