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St. Lawrence: Part tame river, part wild sea

By: Sylvie Bigar The Washington Post
February 10, 2018 Updated: February 10, 2018 at 11:37 am
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The old La Martre Lighthouse, now fully automated, is one of the best examples of the many scattered along the coast. MUST CREDIT: Photo by Sylvie Bigar for The Washington Post.

In an instant, the moist silence of the forest gave way to what sounded like the frenzied clapping of a crowd. I ran toward the roar and stopped short: Thousands of monumental birds, made even whiter by the indigo backdrop of the sea, croaked in unison as they flew, fluttered and flirted along the cliffs.

Every summer, a colony of northern gannets - this year estimated at 110,000 - lands on Bonaventure Island to nest and raise their young in this national park north of New Brunswick, off the tip of Canada's Gaspe Peninsula, a maritime region shaped like a lobster claw.

This scene was the culmination of a four-day road trip spent exploring the northern coast of the peninsula along the St. Lawrence River.

I dreamed of this mighty waterway, which originates in Kingston on Lake Ontario and flows 750 miles to the Atlantic Ocean, while listening to the ballads of French American crooner Joe Dassin. But as I stumbled out of the propeller plane that brought me from Montreal to Mont-Joli, a salty, briny breeze engulfed me. I was confused. I came for a river, but it was ocean I breathed.

It only took a few minutes to drive to Sainte-Flavie, where I stood on dark sand peppered with seashells. Although the sky was clear, it was impossible to make out the other side nearly 40 miles away.

But nearby, dozens of life-size wooden and concrete figures, part of a striking installation by local artist Marcel Gagnon called "Le Grand Rassemblement," seemed to amble out of the water.

"Here, we call it simply the sea," Gagnon said. "And I played with the tides to give life to the procession." The salty swells of the Atlantic clash with the freshwater flow, creating deep and dangerous currents.

The figures in "Le Grand Rassemblement," an art installation by Marcel Gagnon, seem to amble out of the St. Lawrence River. MUST CREDIT: Photo by Sylvie Bigar for The Washington Post. 

The next morning, the way east alongside fields of wildflowers soon turned more oceanic, with cliffs hemmed by pine and leafy forests. Seals balanced on dark rocks, their white bellies exposed to the warm autumn sun. Fascinated by the maritime environment - half tame river, half wild sea - I headed to Sainte-Anne-des-Monts to meet Sandra Gauthier, the director of Exploramer, a museum and interactive center for marine sciences.

"Explorers rode the St. Lawrence into the North American continent," she said, "Today, we need to preserve and celebrate its biodiversity."

"Jump in!" she ordered, her eyes shiny with excitement as she handed me a massive pair of gray waders. Once I managed to wedge my body in, we explored the shoreline. The low tide revealed purple starfish and wriggly crabs, small fish and heaps of kelp, but farther away, more than 20 shark species meandered along the river.

In 2009, inspired by Ocean Wise, the seafood-conservation program started by the Vancouver Aquarium, Gauthier founded Fourchette Bleue (the company's English-language name is Smarter Seafood), a similar endeavor designed to promote sustainable fishing and uncommon edible species in the St. Lawrence River.

"Today, we've certified 90 Quebec restaurants, shops and fisheries," she said.

There's nothing like two hours on the water surrounded by mollusks and crustaceans to make me hungry. In town, we stopped at Patisserie Marie 4 Poches for delicious artisanal breads and quiches before heading to Couleur Chocolat, the only Fourchette Bleue-certified chocolatier, where peninsula native Carl Pelletier has devised bonbons melding smooth chocolate with briny seaweed.

Later that night, perched on the terrace of Auberge Château Lamontagne, I savored perfectly tender whelks in puff pastry, a new addition to the list.

The farther east I drove the next morning, the more the landscape reminded me of Scandinavia. Lighthouses sprouting in the haze, red wooden shacks in emerald green meadows and dramatically layered schist cliffs plunging into the water. A road sign for Le Bout du Monde (the end of the world) felt utterly appropriate.

The Gaspe Peninsula may have felt that way to some explorers, but starting in the 16th century it became the doorway to the New World, drawing European fishermen to its treasure trove of cod. Driven by the medieval church's nearly 160 days of fasting, which meant mostly no meat, the European demand for fish was acute. In "Cod: A Biography of the Fish that Changed the World," author Mark Kurlansky relates the destiny of this fish and the men who went after it before and after 1534, when French explorer Jacques Cartier "planted a cross on the Gaspé Peninsula and claimed it all for France."

It was humbling to reflect on the Vikings, the Basque, the Irish and the many others who made their mark on the area as I hiked some trails near the end of the Appalachian Range. I was on the lookout for a moose or lynx, but only a large porcupine crossed my path.

The next day, I strolled on the lively seafront of Perce. Before the cod succumbed to overfishing, the port town was teeming with rickety tables covered with flattened fish drying in the sun.

But the Gaspe Peninsula and the St. Lawrence (whether you call it river, estuary or gulf), are no museum of past grandeur. On my way to Michel-Pouliot Gaspé Airport, I visited Gérard Mathar and Catherine Jacob, modern-day emigrants from Belgium who crossed the Atlantic in 2005 to build a home, a farm and a foraging business called Gaspésie Sauvage. With their three boys, the couple arenot only almost self-sufficient but also have harnessed a sustainable gourmet business from the very nature they came to seek.

This land, with its forests and mountains, marshes and meadows, still attracts men and birds. Now protected, the cod cannot be far behind.

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