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Gnocchi are demanding. These dumplings are not.

By: Sara Moulton The Washington Post
May 17, 2017 Updated: May 17, 2017 at 4:30 am
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Sweet Potato Dumplings and Spinach Gratin. MUST CREDIT: Photo by Renee Comet for the Washington Post; styling by Bonnie S. Benwick.

One of the better things about serving a roast for Sunday supper is that it tends to cook itself. Slip it into the oven and you're free to do just about anything else - including focusing on the vegetables and other so-called "sides."

This recipe is for a side that deserves star billing. It's a variation on the Italian potato dumplings known as gnocchi, which often are made with russets combined with flour, then rolled, shaped and boiled. They're a lot of work.

However, when you opt for sweet potatoes, as I have here, and don't have to worry about the shaping, the dumplings get considerably easier. Simply scoop up spoonfuls of dough and drop them in boiling water. This decreases the time it takes to prepare them.

In fact, you can make the dumplings several days ahead of time. Then, about 40 minutes before sitting down to dinner, you pull the dumplings from the refrigerator, saute the spinach and combine everything with the liquids and cheese. Pop it all into a gratin dish and bake for about 20 minutes.

You're welcome to swap out the spinach in favor of chard or other greens. Likewise, you can kiss off the Gruyere and replace it with cheddar, blue cheese or feta.

Want to transform this recipe into a vegetarian dish? Use vegetable broth instead of chicken broth.

Ultimately, you might consider moving this dish from the side of the plate to the center. None of the carnivores at the table will go hungry, I promise.

Sweet Potato Dumplings and Spinach Gratin

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Yield: 6 servings

2 large sweet potatoes (1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds total), scrubbed well 1 1 /4 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish About 1 1/2 cups flour, plus more as needed 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 10 ounces fresh baby spinach 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth 1 1/2 ounces (6 1/4 tablespoons) coarsely grated Gruyere cheese 1/2 ounce (1 tablespoon) finely grated Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese

Procedure:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Prick sweet potatoes with tip of a paring knife several times and place on baking sheet. Bake (middle rack) until they are very tender, about 1 1/4 hours.

Let them cool completely, then scrape out potato flesh and put it either through a ricer or a food mill, or puree it in a food processor. Transfer it to a medium bowl; you should have about 1 3/4 cups. Discard skins.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Bring large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Grease baking dish with a little butter. Lightly flour a work surface.

Add egg, the 1 1/4 teaspoons salt and the nutmeg to pureed potato, stirring until smooth. Fold in the 1 1/2 cups flour and stir until barely incorporated.

If mixture is stiff enough so that an inserted spoon can stand in it, proceed with the next step. If it doesn't, add more flour a few tablespoons at a time, stirring just until incorporated, to form a dough that holds its shape.

Use a 3/8-ounce (#100) disher or a level tablespoon to portion dough into (rough-shaped) balls, placing them on the floured surface as you work. You should end up with about 36 balls.

Add half the balls to boiling water, reduce heat to medium and cook dumplings until they all float, for 2 or 3 minutes. Use Chinese spider or slotted spoon to transfer dumplings to the gratin dish. Repeat with the remaining balls.

Melt the 2 tablespoons of butter in large skillet over medium-high heat. When butter just starts to brown, add half the spinach, stirring until most of the spinach has wilted.

Add remaining spinach and a hefty pinch of salt; cook until all the spinach has wilted and most of the moisture it gave off has evaporated.

Add garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, then use slotted spoon to transfer spinach to gratin dish.

Combine heavy cream and broth in large liquid measuring cup, then pour it over spinach. Sprinkle cheeses evenly over top.

Bake (middle rack) for about 20 minutes, or until the liquid is bubbling around the edges. Serve hot.

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