Drive-thru review: The newest wing joint on the block will surprise you

By: Ken Hoffman King Features Syndicate
October 7, 2013
photo - Ken Hoffman - Drive Thru
Ken Hoffman - Drive Thru 

McDonald's, which has sullied the good name of chicken by selling billions of McNuggets, has created deep-fried wings that compare favorably to those at any sports bar or wing joint. They are, in truth, mighty big Mighty Wings.

Here's the blueprint: three wing pieces, breaded and deep-fried, served with one packet of dipping sauce. McDonald's serves a blend of drums (the piece that looks like a mini chicken leg) and flappers (the flat part).

The good cop goes first: These wings are extremely big, and I don't mean loaded down with greasy, caked-on breading. The breading is pretty light. McDonald's simply decided to make its splash in the bone-in wing game by selling jumbo-size wings. They are noticeably larger than the wings at BW3, Hooters, Wing Stop, the Tilted Kilt and other wing emporiums.

The breading is crunchy - I love that. And it's just-right spicy, with flecks of pepper and garlic. It's not hot enough to make you dive for your $1-any-size soft drink at McDonald's, but not namby-pamby enough that you'll let your toddler have some.

Here's a problem that the geniuses in McDonald's product development didn't see coming: The wings are too big to dip into a McDonald's sauce packet. You either can pour a little on each wing - if you're a marksman - or pour the whole packet into the wings box and shake 'em, like at full-service wing places.

Another problem: Mighty Wings aren't available naked - meaning without breading.

But the biggest problem of all with Mighty Wings: They're simply too expensive. I swear, when I saw the sign that said "3 Pieces - $3.29," I thought the wings came with fries and a soft drink. Nope, that's $3.29 for three wings ... just the wings. That's overpricing yourself out of the market.

Yes, the wings are very large, I get it, and they're mighty tasty. But how is McDonald's going to compete with "50-cent Wing Night" or "All You Can Eat for $12.99 Night" at the sports bar? Throw in a bag of fries, and we'll talk, McDonald's.

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