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Drive-thru review: Pizza Hut revamps its hand-tossed crust

By: Ken Hoffman King Features Syndicate
February 4, 2014 Updated: February 4, 2014 at 8:25 pm
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photo - Ken Hoffman - Drive Thru
Ken Hoffman - Drive Thru 

When the world's No. 1 pizza maker totally reworks its No. 1 seller, that's a pizza revolution. And that's what Pizza Hut has done with its Hand-Tossed Pizza.

Here's the blueprint: a new, lighter and airier crust topped with pizza sauce, "real cheese made with mozzarella" (sounds like lawyers got hold of the wording), tomato sauce and pepperoni, plus a brush of garlic-butter spread on the crust.

The crust is lighter, with pockets of air. Don't get your hopes up - they don't pop like bubble wrap. The crust is a little sweeter, too. I'm OK with everything so far.

Pizza Hut now brushes the outer edge of the crust with a garlic-butter spread. Wow, that's never been done before ... except when Domino's started doing it in 2009. Pizza Hut following the lead of Domino's is like Meryl Streep studying Kim Kardashian's performance in "Tyler Perry's Temptation: Confessions of a Marriage Counselor." (Yes, that was a real movie.)

Pizza Hut's new Hand-Tossed Pizza looks different, too. In Pizza Hut's biggest retraining program ever, pie makers were told it's OK to be a little creative. So now you'll find some stray pieces of cheese running for their lives on the outer crust. Those bits are little gems because they crisp up in the oven and add texture to the pizza.

So now each pizza is different. I don't know if that's smart. One of the better things about fast food is sameness, which is another word for dependability. It's comforting to know that no matter where you are in the world, you can walk into a Burger King and that Whopper is going to taste exactly like a Whopper back home.

Pizza Hut's new Hand-Tossed Pizza comes with a guarantee: If you don't like this one, the "next one is on us." Fool me twice, shame on Pizza Hut. Hit me again, except this time ... harder.

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