Drive-thru review: Dunkin' Donuts brings fancy brunch

By: Ken Hoffman King Features Syndicate
April 3, 2014 Updated: April 3, 2014 at 7:35 pm
photo - Ken Hoffman - Drive Thru
Ken Hoffman - Drive Thru 

Eggs Benedict? Look at us, getting all fancy for sit-down Sunday brunch at the Four Seasons.

Except we're at Dunkin' Donuts, standing in line behind a lawyer grabbing coffee and a bagel with a schmear, three cops on break, a soccer mom picking up a dozen glazed doughnuts for Junior's team, and two college students also getting a dozen glazed, but only for them.

Here's the Eggs Benedict Breakfast Sandwich blueprint: Black Forest ham, a peppered egg and creamy Hollandaise spread on a toasted English muffin.

Upfront: This is Dunkin's take on classic Eggs Benedict; it's not the real thing. You want legit Eggs Benedict? Get dressed and drive to the hotel restaurant.

Dunkin' boasts that its Hollandaise "spread" delivers the lemony flavor of real Hollandaise but admits it's not an authentic emulsion of egg yolks, clarified butter and lemon juice. Making delicate Hollandaise to order would take too much time, and would push the line out the door and down the block.

Dunkin's wizards in product development came up with a Hollandaise-like concoction that is thicker and more stable than runny Hollandaise. It's got the consistency of cream cheese so it spreads easily on an English muffin and stays there.

The Eggs Benedict Breakfast Sandwich has a unique taste for fast food. I like it. Small gripe: I'm not crazy about pre-cooked eggs that are prepared off campus.

Dunkin's Eggs Benedict Breakfast Sandwich is designed for eating on the run or behind the wheel. If Dunkin' used drippy Hollandaise sauce, you'd be at Auto Zone buying industrial-strength cleaner for that stain on your imitation-leather car seats.

If you're an Eggs Benedict traditionalist, Dunkin's version will not please you.

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